High Plains Drifters

This morning we headed out from Burgos where we spent two nights in a real hotel. It was truly delightful. Many of the albergues have hot showers, but the rooms themselves are freezing. So 10 seconds after  a hot shower you are already cold again. Apparently it’s been unseasonably cool this year. We had a warm first week but mostof  the time since it’s been quite cool in the early part of the day and in the evening.
So, hot shower, warm bathroom, white downy sheets felt positively decadent, and we had them for two nights.
While we were in Burgos it was high 30’s and raining. And I’d hand washed all of our socks so we were relegated to flip flops and freezing feet. But it’s a beautiful town, a lovely mix of ancient and modern. We had a couple of wonderful meals.
We did some touristy things there, visited the Museo de Burgos and the Burgos Cathedral which was an beautiful gothic cathedral. You think about cities like Pompeii where they’ve unearthed these well preserved bits of history. A cathedral is kind of the opposite. Bits of history are added on layer by layer, with the family crest of one royal or bishop just added on room by room. I was impressed however for such a massive structure that there were still plenty of little intimate spaces within. That seems true of the churches we’be seen in general.
We left Burgos today to enter the Meseta, the high plateau of northwestern Spain, where l will spend the next week to 10 days I think. I was expecting not to like it from what I’d read but it’s lovely at least at our current temperature. It’s a sea of green young wheat on either side of the road with an occasional tree or pile of rocks tossed in for variety. The wind ripples across the fields that stretch for miles. Forever in your periphery there are wind farms turning in the breeze. It’s supposed to be brutal in this section in the summer and I can see why. The stretches between towns is longer so you need to make sure you have adequate water. But it was lovely cool and breezy.  
Ask me again in 10 days if I still like it.

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